Photography tutorial: how to work with outdoor light
By Dan Paris
One of my earliest lessons in photography began with a trip to the Perth Airport. Aged no more than 5, I remember sitting on a wall and watching as aircraft launched themselves into the air. These were the days of very little security. At the time, waiting passengers were invited to enjoy the thrill of takeoff from an outdoor garden next to the runway. In fact, had I slipped off the metre high wall I was perched on, I would have found myself along side a boarding plane. How things have changed.
As always, it wasn’t long before my departing aunt decided she would like the usual quick picture of the kiddies. Although only 5, I had been around long enough to know this procedure was never quick. First there was the set dressing. Planes and concrete were no good in the background so we were shuffled in front of a flowering hedge. Next came the wardrobe department removing hats and straightening collars. Soon makeup was addressed with a wet tissue clearing all food stains from around the face.
At this point there was one thing my aunt always did before pressing the shutter… make sure the sun is behind the camera.
Now, while you don’t have to study photography to know this, all the same, what a wonderfully handy tip. Without light on the subject we are photographing it is impossible to record an image. So it makes sense to have them/it facing into the sun. Or does it?
What I’ve found over the years is that in fact it does not. Direct sunlight is like using a camera’s built in flash. The harsh front on light has the effect of flattening an image and can make an image appear “blown out”. Add to this the unpleasant expression on the subjects face as they struggle to squint into the sun. Experiment a little with natural light and the results will add enormous impact to your images.
The best time to photograph many different subjects outdoors is before 9am and after 3pm. The light has a rich warmth to it and contrasts less with darker areas in shadow. During this period shadows themselves are longer and help to create depth within an image, evoking a more 3 dimensional appearance.
Twilight is also a favourite time for me. As the sun has yet to rise or has just set, longer exposures are necessary - as is the use of a tripod. The soft colours at this time of day are calming and create very peaceful images.
Using diffused light is another way to improve an image. An overcast day is perfect for shooting under the canopy of a rainforest. Full sunlight creates a distracting contrast, making it difficult to accurately capture the textures and details within a scene. Light passing through cloud is softer and will fall on a subject evenly, allowing for more detail in the shadows and the highlights.
Almost every modern camera boasts having a built in flash. Unfortunately many “high end” professional cameras do not, but luckily my Nikon D200 entered the market with this wonderful feature. More than mere illumination for a night scene, my camera’s flash has found it’s purpose often in the middle of the day adding detail in shaded areas. Fill flash is also useful when shooting a subject into the sun, however it may be necessary to bump the intensity of the flash up a stop or two to get the desired effect. This usually depends on how far the subject is from the camera. When I think back to the trauma we kids had to go through when having our photo taken by the aunt I have to give her credit.There is no doubt her attention to detail was what made her photographs the best in the album, and perhaps it is why I prefer to spend time creating an image now. I had hoped, however, that after 30 years the routine would change. Oh well…I’m glad she has a sense of humour.
By Dan Paris.
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